Rio de Janeiro (part 2)

We got to Rio on the evening of the Sutton – Arsenal match and found a tiny little bar with a TV that was happy to put it on for us.

Afterwards we headed to our accommodation for the next few nights – this was the first time ever that we actually couchsurfed rather than hosted. We stayed with a guy called Nilo in a flat he shared with two friends in Lapa (the party area of Rio). We only met one of his housemates, as they both work on large oil ships and are away for a month at a time and then back on land for a month.
Nilo will also start working on one of these shortly. Apparently it is very good money, but not so great for a settled life (as you can imagine).
Since we had got the most important sights out of the way earlier, we took it quite easy this time. Most of the first day was spent at the markets near Uruguaiana to see if they could fix the iPhone Oscar had dropped the day before (they couldn’t). In the evening, we met up with Nathalia again and this time we also got to see another of our previous Couchsurfers, Ana. They in turn were meeting with a couple from Martinique that had hosted her and Nathalia in Paris.

Oscar had joined up with a number of randoms via Couchsurfing and an English guy from the group joined us for drinks (Oscar and Joey went partying in Copacabana once the rest of us had given up).

The next day, we took the little tram up to Santa Theresa, which is a beautiful arty area on the hill. Lene had recommended a bar up there for Feijoada and it was really good.

In the evening, we had some drinks with Nilo, Alisson (the housemate) and a friend of theirs and then went to the same little alley that Nathalia and Flavio had taken us two weeks earlier.
Another place on Lene’s list of recommendations was Pedra Bonita. Nilo had told us about it as well, so the next day we headed there. One of the people from the hostel in Salvador, Abi, was already in Rio and joined us along with two of his friends. After a short hike, you get stunning views of the city.

We were planning to meet Abi and his friends in Lapa later that night. A Chilean girl called Anto (from the Couchsurfing carnival group) came to meet us at Nilo’s. We then went to meet Alisson and a Polish girl, who had met one of his close friends somewhere else in South America and was spending carnival in Rio as well. A few caipirinhas and a club lter, I was ready to go home (Anto and Oscar kept partying, met Abi – and Oscar came back absolutely covered in glitter :-p.

By this point, it was Friday and carnival was officially about to start! We moved all our stuff to a hotel near the bus station that we had booked on Black Friday sales. Not a terrible selection this time, except for the fact that the roads around the hotel were closed a different times during the night to allow the massive samba floats to move to the Sambodromo for the parades!
Friday night we had tickets to see the first parades, which was pretty cool. Anto was there too and we had a little non-samba looking dance in the stands.

Saturday we slept late and missed the bloco (street party) in Copacabana. We ended up picking up Abi from his hostel in Botafogo and Oscar incited a little grime rave in the courtyard with some cool people in various stages of drunkenness while we were waiting for two Dutch girls (also from the hostel in Salvador) to join us. We caught the last bit of a bloco around the corner and then made our way to Lapa again and ended up in the usual alley by Praça Tiradentes, where we also bumped into Nilo and his friends again.

By Sunday, I desperately needed a break from alcohol and people so decided to stay in. We only left the room to eat at the hotel restaurant next door and then Oscar joined Anto and Joey later on while I caught up with some Netflix. Simple pleasures :).

Monday was the last day for us (and a number of others) as we were catching the bus to São Paulo at lunchtime on Tuesday. For once, I decided to get up early to catch one of the early blocos (Nilo had said they were the best). I picked the AfroReggae one and it was awesome. Oscar joined me a bit later and we managed to see everyone we’d been hanging out with in the course of the day.

Arraial do Cabo

Our bus from Rio to Arraial crossed the impressive Niteroi bridge that we had seen from high up last time we were there. Once we got to Arraial, we made our way to our Airbnb and headed for the closest beach. There are many different beaches dotted around Arraial and we visited most of them during our stay (some by boat). One thing we really noticed is that the beaches were much cleaner and there were signs to take your rubbish back with you everywhere.
The water was super clear and you could see quite far down.
One evening we watched the sunset from the roof of a ruined house, another night we witnessed a rap battle on the village square, otherwise we had food and relaxed. A beautiful place!

Salvador da Bahia

We wanted to visit Salvador because it is the centre of afro-brazilian culture, the former capital and birthplace of Capoeira. The road from the airport was lined with bamboo arches and we drove past what seemed like a new railway system. Like São Paulo, the outskirts of the city seemed to go on forever, with high risers as far as we could see.
For the first two nights, we stayed in a Pousada near the touristic centre of Pelourinho, full of old colonial houses in various stages of (did)repair – Salvador does not seem like a very rich city…
Close to where we stayed was an old fort, which now houses a number of different Capoeira schools.

Oscar was very excited to find out that Michael Jackson’s “They don’t really care about us” was filmed on one of the squares in Pelourinho, in collaboration with the Oludum drum school.

On our second evening, as we left for dinner, we bumped into our French neighbours from the Pousada and they invited us to join them and some friends for dinner and we got to taste Moqueca (a sort of sea food stew with coconut milk).
We moved to a hostel closer to the beaches the day after (recommended by a German couple we had met in Florianopólis). On a walking tour, we met two Austrian friends (who we later discovered​ were only 19 and had just finished school!) and spent the evening and the next few days with them. Dinner that night was eventful – a taxi stopped in front of the restaurant where we were sitting because its gas tank in the trunk was leaking. Everyone sitting outside jumped up from their meals and hurried inside, while the driver tried to fix the leak (he didn’t manage and just let it all stream out in the end). Our first night in the hostel was also interesting as apparently they had double booked Oscar’s bed (but fortunately he was the first one in there, so the other person moved her stuff (loudly!) in the middle of the night.
The next day we checked out some of the beaches with the Austrians (they were alright, but unfortunately full of rubbish) and watched the sun go down by a lighthouse. In the evening, we joined a group of people from the hostel for drinks at the beach and found out that a number of them would be in Rio for the carnival as well.

On our last day, we went into Pelourinho with some guys from the hostel as there was live music in various places. For some reason, we all ended up buying touristic t-shirts at some point during the day and formed a group of super tourists for the rest of the day…

We now had five days left before Rio Carnival and had decided to spend these relaxing by a proper beach. So we flew back to Rio and then caught a bus to Arraial do Cabo, about 3 hours north.

Rio de Janeiro

We arrived in Rio on a Friday evening and got a cab to our Airbnb in Urca. Urca is a small, safe and residential neighbourhood around the Pão de Açúcar (the Sugarloaf). Our accommodation was tiny, like a converted garage, but perfect for a few days.

We hosted three Brazilian ladies in London last year and we met up with one of them and her boyfriend in Botafogo for a drink and then they decided to take us out in Lapa. Flávio was driving, so we were lucky enough to be chauffeured around! We first went to the Escadaria Selarón (famous steps in Lapa that I’d never even heard of) and had some caipirinha there.

We then went to a cachaça bar and shared an entire bottle of ginger-cinnamon cachaça between Nathália, Oscar and me (since Flávio was driving).

It must have already been fairly late at that point, but the streets were busy and we were merry and so when they suggested to go to a street party, we happily said yes. So here we are, at 5am…

We got taken home around 6am and has a very unproductive day after waking up in the afternoon! Our only action of the day was to get some pizza in the neighbourhood later on.

Sunday we decided to do some sightseeing and walked across town for a while before heading to the Sugarloaf in the early evening. We timed it well to see the sunset over Rio, which was breathtaking! It really is a beautiful city with the mountains and beaches and bays around it.

On Monday, we had tickets to take the train up the Corcovado to see Christ the Redeemer. Again we had the most amazing view over the city.

In the evening, we met our Argentinian friends from Paraty and Ilha Grande, Ángel and Elisa, for a beer on the wall of Urca – a stretch of low wall around the bay with a beautiful view of the city.

We got invited to stay at theirs in Buenos Aires and this will certainly teach us to book refundable and cancelable hotels from now on! 🙂

Tuesday was our day to travel to Salvador, but since our flight was only in the evening, we checked out of our Airbnb and left our luggage and the bus terminal before meeting Elisa and Angel at the Museum of Tomorrow.

And that was our first trip to Rio! We got the big sights out of the way, but Lene gave us a list of things to do as well and I’m looking forward to checking out some of those when we get back there on the 20th of February.

Paraty and Ilha Grande

From Floripa, we caught a bus to Paraty further north (on the way to Rio). It’s got a historical centre in colonial style, complete with old cobbled streets. We had booked two nights, and on reflection that really should have been three to five is two full days rather than just one. We spent our day on a boat trip to a few beaches and bays around the area, swimming and snorkeling.

There were two other couples on our boat but we didn’t really chat to each other.
The next day we were due to get a bus to Angra dos Reis and catch a ferry to Ilha Grande from there. Oscar had started feeling ill the evening before, so we got a taxi to the bus terminal (and got well and truly overcharged). Funnily enough, one of the couples from the boat trip was ahead of us in the queue for the bus, so we joined forces in making our way to Ilha Grande. There are a few places along the coast that travellers visit and this is one of the common routes.
Ilha Grande is car-free and mainly full of trees (yay!), with good hiking trails and nice beaches.

Unfortunately, we had only booked two nights here as well (all booked together on that one day…), so again we only had one full day and Oscar wasn’t feeling great. At least we had the hostel dorm to ourselves.
Internet wasn’t great, so I couldn’t coordinate with the Argentinian couple and instead walked around a bit by myself before carrying Oscar to the beach for the afternoon (I carry him all the time. I’m very strong).

Short visit over, we caught the morning ferry back to Angra and a bus to Rio de Janeiro.


Our friend Lene used to live in Floripa and she sent us a long list of things to do there – it’s a cool city half on the mainland and half on the island of Santa Catarina.
We wanted a few days to just chill at the beach and do nothing, because we felt a bit tired at that point… So we got ourselves an Airbnb in the centre for two nights (excellent choice of location this time!) and spent the day watching football and going to a Couchsurfing event called “Dinner with Strangers” in the evening. It was pretty cool – everyone paid a certain amount and brought their own drinks while two chefs made some really nice Lebanese food. The people there were a mix of Florianopólis natives, people working in the government there, tourists from other areas of Brazil… and us. Oscar has been saying that he wants to try and organise something like that when we’re back… Could be fun if it works out 🙂

The next day we spent just chilling and watching Netflix, with an excursion for some food in the evening.
For the rest of the week, we decided to move a bit closer to the beaches (of which there are many) and booked a hostel in Lagoa da Conceição, which is a big lagoon with a little town centre near it, full of shops and restaurants. At that point we’d also worked out the public bus system (there are not a lot of signs so it often involves asking the bus driver where they are going…).
Anyway, we were very lucky with the hostel – staff and guests were all really cool and we spent the evenings chatting and playing cards. So Oscar finally got a nice hostel experience :). One day we hiked to a remote beach called Lagoinha do Leste with our dorm neighbour from Germany (we’re everywhere). It took two hours to get there and another to get back to an area where we could catch a bus, but was totally worth it. The beach was nearly empty when we got there.

On the way home, we stopped in a restaurant by the beach from Lene’s list – it’s full of little notes from people all over the world.

I’m super sunburnt here from the day before, but I’m glad to say it got better quickly…


Oscar’s clear highlight was the BBQ prepared by one of the hostel guests (a chef from Norway) and the staff one night. He has since been telling everyone about the slow-cooked ribs they made (ask him, I dare you. Or has he told you already?).

We got a bit caught out with high season in Floripa and had to move to a different hostel for the last two nights, which wasn’t as nice and made us think that we really had to plan ahead a bit more. So we booked the next two weeks ahead and it took quite a long time to get it all sorted… and then we got it a bit wrong too :).

Foz do Iguaçu

For the day after we came back from Ilhabela, we had booked an overnight bus to Foz do Iguaçu to see the waterfalls. Unfortunately, we still hadn’t learned from our São Paulo hotel mistake – this time, the area wasn’t dodgy, but quite a bit outside of the centre! But they did transfers to both the Brazilian and the Argentine side of the waterfalls, so it was annoying but not too bad.
We went to the Brazilian side first, which gives you a more panoramic view of the falls. Really really impressive, discussion at the “Devil’s Throat”, which is the big waterfall at the top.

In the evening, we met up with a local guy via Couchsurfing ,(I’m not being paid to advertise this, honest) and he took us for some local food and then one of the few bars they have in the city. When we got in, the music made us feel like we were back in the early 00’s – total flashback! Except everyone around us was much younger and absolutely going for it without any discernible irony. Very strange! 7 Also, one of the DJs looked like Wayne from Wayne’s World and I really wish I’d managed to take a good picture!

Next day we went to Argentina and walked around their national park as well. Again, the Devil’s Throat (this time seen from above) was incredible. All day, we were wondering why so many Argentines were carrying big thermos flasks around the park (Fernando solved the mystery for us – apparently it’s full of cold mate (sometimes mixed with other juice). I’m planning to get myself one the moment we cross the border into Argentina again in March. Everyone will think I’m local!

On our last day in Foz do Iguaçu, we went to Itaipu dam, which is one of the wonders of the modern world and really bloody impressive too. And then we were off to Florianópolis!


São Paulo is HUGE. It just doesn’t end. You drive and whenever you think you’re out of it, there are more highrisers…
On Saturday morning, Luiz drove Alliny and us 4 hours to the coast and a little island called Ilhabela. It’s a beautiful place, very much a holiday area. We got there in the afternoon and stayed in a hostel just across the street from the beach. On Sunday, we went to a place called Cachoeira da Toca, which is a bit like a natural aquatic park – there are different areas ( a waterfall, a big cave, natural rock slides) where you can spend all day and try some cachaça made there afterwards. The only downside were a whole lot of flying bitey things that made our legs (mainly mine – wish I wasn’t so white) look like a teenager’s face. I think even Steffi with her much preferred blood (by anything that bites) wouldn’t have been able to distract them. But anyway, it was beautiful and fun and we bought ourselves some ginger cachaça which we reckoned would be excellent for sore throats (no other reason) before we left.


São Paulo

We were meant to leave Doha early in the morning and get to São Paulo around 6pm. Unfortunately, we had about 6 hours delay and didn’t really get told anything… So we spent a lot of time reading about the city and most websites mention crime… By the time we got there around 1am, we were already a bit spooked and the behaviour of our taxi driver (slowing down before red lights so he didn’t have to stop, watching anyone out in the road very carefully, insisting we pay him inside the taxi) didn’t really reassure us! Turns out we had booked a hotel in a slightly dodgy area (at least at night). When we left the hotel the next morning it was absolutely fine. We did a free walking tour that day and then met Luiz, who’s couchsurfed with us in London, for dinner. He suggested taking us to the beach for the weekend and his friend Alliny also found us a hostel in a safer neighbourhood :). We met another previous Couchsurfer (Erika) and a group of her friends the next night and so we got over our not ideal introduction to the city! 😉
I liked Vila Madalena most, which is a bit like São Paulo’s Shoreditch.