Our flight to Ushuaia from Buenos Aires was one of the shakiest both of us have ever been on, from take off to landing (people actually applauded with relief once the pilot sat the plane down). Coming out of the airport was a bit of a temperature shock, it was about 6 degrees and rainy. We shared a cab into town with two random French ladies, got into our paint smelling apartment and turned on the heating. Annoyingly, the only kitchen gadget in the apartment was a kettle – no fridge, no stove… The only useful thing in there was an extra bed in the kitchen, so that we could host Max (who we had met in the school in Buenos Aires) for the second night.
We had booked our stay in Ushuaia early on – before the lessons we learned about not just booking two nights! So we only had one full day to discover anything of the area and had to make a choice between the National Park and another hike recommended to us, to Laguna Esmeralda. We decided for the Laguna n d set off the next day in a shuttle bus with one other person, a book seller/ musicians from Buenos Aires. It had been raining quite a lot, so the path was very muddy on top of being very boggy in the first place. Fortunately, we’d bought new trainers that let the water go through rather than keep it in and they were put to good use when Oscar decided to take a path that meant we had to cross a small river!
Once we reached the lake, it was clear why it had been recommended to us. The colour really was emerald and it must be even more stunning in good weather.
On the way back, the sun decided to come out for a little, which made for a more pleasant return trip.

(Photos are still on the camera – will upload more later)

Max joined us in the apartment that evening and we shared a rapidly cooling take-away meal in our ‘kitchen’.

The next morning, we already got on the bus to Punta Arenas in Chile. While driving, we crossed the Straits of Magellan (where we had to disembark from the coach and stand on the ferry deck while crossing). Oscar was moaning about the cold, but I was really excited to be crossing this stretch of water that I remember reading about when I was a child.

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